A History of the Fez

The Fez, known in Turkish as the fes, is one of the most recognisable symbols of the Ottoman era and once served as a major marker of modern identity across the empire. Although now largely a ceremonial or historical accessory, its story reflects significant shifts in Turkish society, politics, and cultural identity.

When the Fez First Appeared

Although its exact origin is debated, the Fez is commonly believed to have developed in the early 19th century and entered widespread use during the reign of Sultan Mahmud II. The headgear was introduced as part of Mahmud II’s sweeping modernisation reforms in the 1820s, aimed at replacing the diverse range of traditional head coverings worn across the Ottoman Empire. The new hat was simple, uniform, and easy to manufacture, making it suitable for soldiers, civil servants, and citizens alike.

By the 1830s, the Fez had become the official state headgear, widely worn by government officials, the military, and much of the urban population. It soon became a powerful symbol of Ottoman identity and reform.

Popularity and Cultural Significance

The Fez was viewed as a modern, clean, and practical alternative to older Ottoman turbans. It symbolised the empire’s attempt to adopt a more unified, centralised image while distancing itself from the regional variations in dress. Its use spread rapidly across the Middle East, North Africa, and parts of Europe under Ottoman influence.

In the late 19th century, the Fez also became an emblem of the Ottoman elite, frequently appearing in photographs, official portraits, and diplomatic gatherings. Foreign statesmen often associated the hat directly with Istanbul and Ottoman culture, giving it an iconic status that remains recognisable today.

Why the Fez Was Eventually Banned in Turkey

The decline of the Fez began after the establishment of the Republic of Turkey in 1923. As the new nation pursued Western-style modernisation, clothing became a central symbol of the transformation. To promote a break from Ottoman tradition and align Turkey with European norms, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk introduced the Hat Law (Şapka Kanunu) in 1925.

This law required men to wear Western-style hats and officially banned the Fez across the country. Atatürk argued that headwear was a visible sign of Turkey’s shift towards secularism, rationalism, and modern civilisation, while the Fez was seen as a relic of the old empire. Despite some resistance—especially in conservative and rural areas—the ban marked a decisive cultural turning point.

Where It Was Most Commonly Used

At its height, the Fez was worn universally throughout Istanbul, the administrative heart of the empire, and widely across Anatolia and Ottoman territories in the Balkans and the Middle East. It was particularly common among government employees, merchants, teachers, and religious scholars.

Who Promoted and Regulated Its Use

The Fez was initially promoted by Sultan Mahmud II, whose modernisation programme sought to streamline military and civilian dress. Later, under the Republic, its prohibition was directed by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk and enacted by the Turkish Grand National Assembly as part of the broader cultural reforms of the 1920s.